Application Notes

 

 

1.8L Moss/Jackson Racing/Sebring supercharger

1.6L Moss/Jackson Racing BBK (big boost kit)

Nitrous Oxide

In-Dash Timing Adjustment

Map Sensor

 

1.8L Moss/Jackson Racing/Sebring supercharger

To alter fuel delivery, SOME 1.8L Moss/Jackson Racing/Sebring supercharger kits use a modification to the intake air temperature sensor. This modification tricks the Engine Control Unit (ECU) into thinking that the air temperature is much colder than it actually is. The ECU responds by adding fuel, which is needed because of the extra air provided by the supercharger. Neat trick.

A problem with this setup is that too much fuel may be delivered at idle, when the supercharger is not adding air. Some 1.8L supercharger kits use an 'Idle compensator module' to address this situation.. This compensator basically disabled the resistor that is switched into the air temperature sensor circuit when not under boost. Several owners have experienced drivability problems with the 'Idle compensator module' as it switches in and out of boost. Many have disconnected the boost switch. Others have replaced the module with a fixed 15 K ohm resistor.

Unfortunately, the 'resistor trick' will trick the ACU as well as the ECU. This will render the ACU air temperature compensation inoperative. (The ACU will otherwise function normally.) Although you might think that you could remedy the situation by connecting things in the proper order, it's not that simple.

Further complicating matters, Not all Moss/Jackson Racing/Sebring 1.8L kits use the same air temperature setup. Some use the 'Idle compensator module' and some don't. Later versions of the base kit do not use a modification to the air temeprature input at all, but use an Auxiliary Fuel Pressure Regulator instead. But, it is our understanding that the Big Boost Kit (BBK) uses both!

To properly connect the ACU, you will need to know if your kit uses a fixed resistor and/or an 'idle compensator module' or not.

If your kit uses an AFPR only, make the air temperature connection to the ACU as per the standard wiring diagram. Do NOT use the 15K option.

There are three work-arounds for the 1.8L Moss/Jackson Racing/Sebring supercharger application with modified air temperature circuitry. Choose one:

  1. Don't enable ACU air temperature compensation. Leave the air temperature terminal on the ACU disconnected. You may need to dial in an extra degree or two of airflow-mapped timing retard to compensate. You will still get all of the other benefits of the ACU.
  2. If your kit uses a fixed resistor, set the ACU's 15K option (see the Programming page). The ACU will then operate with this modification. The ACU's temperature resolution will not be quite as good as with the stock Miata setup, but it will be adequate. You will need to connect the ACU's air temperature input at the temperature sensor, before the fixed resistor, not at the ECU. Click here for the Fixed resistor instructions.
  3. If your kit uses an 'Idle compensator module', install a separate temperature sensor for the ACU. Click here for details.

Determining if a fixed resistor and/or an 'Idle compensator module' are installed

It is not easy to determine if your 1.8L supercharger kit included a fixed resistor or 'Idle compensator module' by visual inspection. You can however determine this via an electrical inspection. You will need a voltmeter for this procedure.

  1. Allow the car to reach ambient temperatures under the hood.
  2. Connect a voltmeter to the air temp input signal at the ECU.  (Use the ECU Connections chart in the Installation instructions to locate the correct pin.)  If using a voltmeter probe, you can probably make contact with this pin without splicing into the wire.
  3. Turn the ignition on.
  4. If the voltmeter reads about 4 volts or more, then there is a 15K or similar resistor and no idle compensator module installed (or the idle compensator module is disabled).  Connect the ACU air temp input at the thermistor and set the jumper to the 15K position.  Done.
  5. If the voltmeter reads about 2 volts, then EITHER there is no resistor installed OR there is a resistor installed along with an idle compensator module.  Continue.
  6. A helper may be needed for this step, and the voltmeter connection may need to be spliced.  Drive the car and observe the voltmeter under boost.
  7. If the voltage remains at about 2 volts or lower, then there is no resistor installed.  Connect the ACU at the ECU and leave the ACU jumper in the normal position.
  8. If the voltage jumps up to 4 volts or more under boost, then returns to 2 volts or less, then there is a resistor and an idle compensator module installed.  Choices are to leave the ACU air temperature input disconnected or install an external thermistor.

Note: Bipes Automotive does not recommend or endorse any change in installation of the supercharger.  Bipes Automotive does not accept responsibility for any alterations that you make to the fuel delivery system.

 

Fixed resistor instructions

Some Jackson Racing supercharger kits for the 1.8L engine include a wiring harness that inserts a 15K ohm resistor into the air temperature circuit. ACU units shipped after June 13, 2001 provide an option to accommodate the Jackson Racing modification.

If your kit included an 'Idle compensator module', you can only use this option if you have disabled the module by disconnecting the pressure switch (some owners have found that disconnecting the switch fixes a hesitation or stumble problem). Please note that we are not recommending or endorsing any change in installation of the supercharger.  Bipes Automotive does not accept responsibility for any alterations that you make to the fuel delivery system.

Here's how to enable the ACU option:

1. Remove the four screws from the bottom of the ACU.

2. Remove the bottom cover.

3. Locate the jumper near the center of the board.

Jumper in the 'normal' position.

 

4. Remove the jumper from the two posts towards the back (connector end) of the unit. Re-install the jumper on the two posts towards the front (LED end) of the unit.

Jumper in the '15K' position

5. Replace the bottom cover.

6. Re install the 4 screws.

 To use this ACU option, you must connect your ACU as shown below:

 

Note that the air temperature connection to the ACU must be made from the air temperature sensor, and not the ECU. Your supercharger kit may have included any or none of the components (resistor, idle compensator module, pressure switch) illustrated in gray. If your kit has a pressure switch and an idle compensator module, this ACU option will only work if you have disconnected the black wire between the pressure switch and the idle compensator module.  Bipes Automotive does not recommend or endorse any change in installation of the supercharger.  Bipes Automotive does not accept responsibility for any alterations that you make to the fuel delivery system.  (Did we say that often enough?)

Back to top

 

1.6L Moss/Jackson Racing BBK (big boost kit)

The 1.6L BBK (big boost kit) uses an AFM Module (in addition to an AFPR) to manage fuel.  The AFM Module is well-behaved and does not alter the air temperature sensor's output. The ACU will work properly with the AFM Module, but you must connect the ACU air temperature input to the junction between the air temperature sensor and the AFM Module, not at the ECU.

The ACU is also well-behaved and will not affect AFM Module operation.

Back to top

 

Nitrous Oxide

If you are running nitrous oxide, you may want to retard timing when the nitrous is on to avoid knock. The ACU can be set up to add 3, 4, 6, or 8 degrees of retard across the board when you engage the nitrous. You can easily do this by using a common automotive relay. Refer to the wiring diagram below.

This illustration references the 1.6L ECU pins and wire colors, but the application works equally well on the 1.8L engine.

 

Here's how it works:

The airflow and RPM retard maps are disengaged by connecting the airflow input to ground. The air temperature input is connected to a set of relay contacts that switches to ground when the nitrous is engaged. When the nitrous is not on, the ACU thinks the air temperature is very cold, and it adds no retard. When the nitrous is on, the ACU thinks that it is very hot, and it adds the total amount of air temperature retard. You program the amount of retard via the air temperature switches.

Switch 5

Switch 6

Nitrous retard

open

open

3 degrees retard

open

closed

4 degrees retard

closed

open

6 degrees retard

closed

closed

8 degrees retard

 

In this application, set switch 1 to the 1.8L setting (closed position), even if you have a 1.6L engine.

Switch 1

Engine

open

1.6L - n/a

closed

1.8L - Nitrous

 

Back to top

 

In-dash timing adjustment

If you're willing to forego air temperature compensation, you can easily connect a control to your ACU to adjust timing up to 8 degrees right from the driver's seat. This can be a useful temporary connection. It allows easy adjustment of base timing to help experiment with just the right amount of timing retard that is needed in a particular application. Once you've determined your car's particular needs, you can set the programming switches appropriately, reconnect the temperature compensation, and disconnect the in-dash control.

To install this control, you'll need to obtain two components - a 10K ohm potentiometer (linear taper preferred) and a 13K ohm resistor, rated at 1/4 watt or more. These components are readily available from electronics stores such as Radio Shack Connect these components as shown in the wiring diagram. Note that the ACU air temp input is not connected to the Miata's air temp sensor in this application. This input is connected to the center lead of the potentiometer. Wire to the outside leads of the potentiometer and the resistor as shown.

In-dash timing adjustment wiring diagram.

This illustration references the ECU pins and wire colors for the 1.6L engine, but the application works equally well on the 1.8L engine.

 

To use the control, rotate the potentiometer fully counterclockwise. Set the display to indicate retard. Set the air temperature switches to 1 degree of retard for every 15 degrees C temperature change. Start the engine and let it idle. You should see no LEDs lighted. If you see four LEDs lighted, and these extinguish as you rotate the control clockwise, reverse the connections to the outer leads of the potentiometer.

With the engine idling, adjust the control back and forth. You should be able to light 0, 1, 2, 3, or 4 LEDs. This represents from 0 to 8 degrees of added retard (2 degrees of retard for each LED) . Don't be alarmed if the engine idles poorly or even stalls at the 8 degree setting.

Set the control so that 2 LEDs are lighted. Now, adjust your base timing manually (using a timing light and rotating the CAS) to your desired base timing value.

You should now be set up to add or subtract base timing via the control. For example, if you set base timing to 12 degrees, then rotating the control fully counterclockwise to extinguish the two LEDs that were lighted will leave you at an effective 16 degrees of base timing. Rotating fully clockwise to light four LEDs will put you at 8 degrees base timing. You should be able to verify this with a timing light.

The control adjusts timing across the board. As airflow and RPM increase, the ACU will add more retard to this base value. The display will show the total amount of retard that is being applied by the ACU at any time.

(This application requires software version 1.4.)

Back to top

 

 

MAP sensor

 

For those not satisfied mapping airflow to retard, you can map boost to retard instead by connecting an external manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor to the ACU. A standard GM 2 bar MAP sensor will trigger the ACU to start pulling timing at about 2 psi of boost and will pull maximum timing at about 9-10 psi of boost. Refer to the table below.

Boost/vacuum

ACU LEDs

ACU action

Vacuum

0-3

No retard

0 psi boost

4

2 psi boost

5

Variable retard

4 psi boost

6

7 psi boost

7

10 psi boost

8

Maximum retard

13 psi boost

9

15 psi boost

10

ACU boost-to-retard map with external MAP sensor.

(The ACU LEDs column is with the ACU set to display Airflow.)

Information on GM MAP sensors may be found at the DIY-EFI web site. To purchase a 2 bar GM MAP sensor, I went to my local Checker auto store and asked for a MAP sensor for a '90 Pontiac Sunbird. I got a GM 16009886 equivalent part for $68.

Vacuum/boost

Signal

20" vacuum

0.7 v

0 psi boost

2.3 v

15 psi boost

4.8 v

To check that you have the correct MAP sensor, measure the output voltage with the manifold pressure port disconnceted. You should see about 2.3 volts.

 

To use the extrenal MAP sensor, connect it per the wiring diagram below. Basically, you just connect the airflow input of the ACU to the MAP sensor instead of to the Miata's airflow meter. To power the MAP sensor, you must connect it to +5 volts. Fortunately the Miata can supply this voltage at the ECU or at the airflow meter assembly. For example, on the 1.6L engine, +5 volts is available at ECU pin 2K, which is connected to the airflow meter assembly via a green with red stripe wire.

 

MAP sensor wiring diagram.

This illustration references the ECU pins and wire colors for the 1.6L engine, but the application works equally well on the 1.8L engine.

 

In this application, set switch 1 to the 1.8L setting (closed position), even if you have a 1.6L engine.

Switch 1

Engine

open

1.6L - n/a

closed

1.8L - External MAP sensor

 

Use switches 2-4 to select the boost-to-retard map that you desire. For example, if your turbocharger develops up to 6 psi of boost, and you would like to pull 5 degrees at maximum boost, select 0.8 degrees of retard per psi of boost (6 psi times 0.8 degrees/psi = 4.8 or about 5 degrees). Remember that in this application the ACU will reach maximum boost-mapped retard at about 10 psi. More than 10 psi will not result in additional retard.

 

Boost-to-retard map (approximate) with GM 2 bar MAP sensor

Switch 2

Switch 3

Switch 4

Degrees of retard
per psi of boost

open

open

open

0.4

open

open

closed

0.5

open

closed

open

0.6

open

closed

closed

0.7

closed

open

open

0.8

closed

open

closed

1.0

closed

closed

open

1.2

closed

closed

closed

1.4

Back to top

 

External Temperature Sensor Application Note 

Some Sebring/Jackson Racing/Moss supercharger kits for 1.8L Miatas use a resistor in the air temperature sensor line to the ECU and an "Idle compensator module" to adjust fuel delivery. This setup makes it impossible for the ACU to read the correct intake air temperature. The cleanest solution to this problem is to install a separate air temperature sensor (thermistor) for the ACU.

 

 

To install an external thermistor for the ACU, you need to add the three external components as illustrated in gray. These components may be obtained from the electronics distributor Digi-Key for under $15 inluding shipping. The thermistor value is 2K ohm at 25 degrees C (Digi-Key part no. KC001T-ND). The resistor values are 2.7k ohm (Digi-Key part no. 2.7KQBK-ND - the minimum order quantity is 5) and 5.6k ohm (Digi-Key part no. 5.6KQBK-ND). Visit Digi-Key online at digikey.com to place an order.

The thermistor should be mounted in or near the intake air stream (near the air filter would be suitable). The resistors may be mounted anywhere convenient. You may be able to mount them right at the ACU connector. The thermistor may be connected to ground almost anywhere, including most metal parts of the car or engine. Take care to properly solder wires to these parts and insulate the connections (shrink-wrap tubing is recommended).

Back to top